This is a mildly spicy cake with a light, delicate texture. For a denser and yet more velvety texture, beat all of the sugar with the butter and add the eggs whole instead of separated.
Have all ingredients at room temperature, 68┬░ to 70┬░F. Preheat the oven to 350┬░F. Grease and flour one 9-inch tube pan or one 8- to 10-cup fluted tube or Bundt pan.
Sift together twice:
2 1/3 cups sifted cake flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg or ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt
In a large bowl, beat until creamy, about 30 seconds:
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
Gradually add and beat on high speed until lightened in color and texture, 2 to 4 minutes:
1 1/4 cups sugar
Beat in 1 at a time:
3 large egg yolks
Add the flour mixture in 3 parts, alternating with, in 2 parts:
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons yogurt or buttermilk
beating on low speed or stirring with a rubber spatula until smooth and scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary. In another large bowl, beat on medium speed until soft peaks form:
4 large egg whites
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
Gradually add, beating on high speed:
1/4 cup sugar
Beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry. Use a rubber spatula to fold one-quarter of the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the batter into the pan and spread evenly. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes. Slide a thin knife around the cake to detach it from the pan, or tap the sides of the fluted tube or Bundt pan against the counter to loosen the cake. Invert the cake, then let cool, right side up or inverted, on the rack.
